Vivienne Westwood's rain-kissed Indian debut

On Tuesday evening, on a rare occassion, it drizzled amid the scorching heat in Mumbai. While many may claim it to be an aftermath of global warming, for a few attendees of the Vivienne Westwood's fashion show, it was a romantic moment. To them, the unexpected raindrops felt like a benediction from the late designer herself, blessing the iconic event with her enduring spirit. The iconic Gateway of India, illuminated in vibrant colors, played host to the eponymous brand's maiden show in India.


The Spring Summer 2025 collection, showcased on the runway, was a masterful amalgamation of archival pieces, reinterpreted with Indian fabrics such as Chanderi, Khadi, and more. The in-house team, now helming the brand, deconstructed and reimagined the extensive archives, paying homage to Westwood's punk-infused aesthetic.


The runway was a kaleidoscope of sheer silhouettes, signature tartan, and wool fabrics, as male models sashayed in skirts and corsets, blurring the lines of traditional menswear. Accessories added an extra layer of sophistication, with bags, jewelry, and footwear meticulously crafted to complement the outfits. Indian fashion designer Neeta Lulla, who was one of the esteemed attendees of the show, after the show, states, "I have been such a big fan of her work, especially her corsetry. She has been an inspiration."


As the show unfolded, the audience was mesmerized by a sumptuous visual tapestry. The quintessential Westwood bride made a resplendent appearance, adorned in a majestic gown that embodied the designer's signature blend of rebellious elegance. Oversized pearls added a touch of whimsy, while eclectic footwear – a hallmark of Westwood's avant-garde aesthetic – elevated each look to new heights. The grand finale, set to the iconic "Boom Boom" by Nazia Hassan, left the audience in awe, as the models took their final bow.


Contrary to Indian fashion shows, this one gave a Bollywood superstar stopping the show a miss. However, the front row was star studded with who's who of Bollywood's glitterati, with Radhika Merchant, Janhvi Kapoor, Bhumi Pednekar, Manushi Chillar, Alaya F, and Aditya Roy Kapur in attendance. Notably, multiple celebrities, including Aditya Roy Kapoor, Disha Patani, and Janhvi Kapoor, made a stylish entrance midway through the show.


Carlo D'Amario, the brand's CEO, graced the occasion, joking about the delayed start, "I wanted to thank everyone an hour ago!" Kareena Kapoor Khan, resplendent in a ruby red off-shoulder corset gown, felicitated D'Amario, expressing her pride in witnessing Vivienne Westwood's collaboration with Indian artisans. In the words of Kareena Kapoor Khan, "It's an absolute honor to be here, celebrating Indian craftsmanship and textiles. Vivienne Westwood's collaboration with Indian artisans is a proud moment, and I'm thrilled to witness this."


Westwood was known to masterfully merge discordant elements to spark conversation and challenge the status quo. Her runway shows were a deliberate clash of opposing forces: high fashion and social activism, refinement and rebellion, beauty and provocation. No topic was too taboo, no issue too incendiary, as Westwood tackled climate change, consumerism, and anti-capitalism with unflinching candor.


While one might have anticipated a more overt incorporation of Indian textiles, the subtle approach proved wasn't inadequate. However, Vivienne’s spark was missing - a sense of unbridled creativity and bold experimentation that once defined her aesthetics. The show felt more like a homage, carefully crafted to honor a legacy rather than push boundaries. The designa lacked a certain je ne sais quoi - an intangible quality that made the originals truly unforgettable. By the end of the evening, it was a polished predictability, rather than revolutionary innovation.


Maybe the preceding pouring was a forecast of the show - only drizzles of excitement for the legacy, but thundering of her voice.