I tried M&S's £110 Christmas turkey - three words sum it up

I have to admit, I'm all Christmas-ed out. The festive season hasn't officially begun and I've already seen and tasted enough Christmas food for the next few years.

In 68 days the big day will finally arrive and there will be a crescendo of festive treats, showstoppers and trimmings all at once. My latest Christmas conquest was a behind the scenes look at the Marks & Spencer's giveings. Unlike the previous showcases, M&S treated us to a more intimate affair with a sitdown banquet-style three course meal... with a little cameo from chef Tom Kerridge.

While there have been rumblings and gripes about the prices of some of M&S' Christmas Food to Order collection, including the price tag of the Collection Fillet of British Beef Wellington by Tom, coming in at an eye-watering £195. I can hear the winces from here.

Instead we were served the Collection British Turkey & Stuffing Wellington by Tom, which is priced at a slightly more reasonable price of £110. Never in my life did I think I would ever chow down on something so pricey for Christmas. Turkey crowns can break the bank enough.

Think of it as a Christmas dinner wrapped up in puff pastry. A slice of the Wellington features a slow-cooked turkey breast around pork, apple, chestnut and cranberry stuffing, with pulled turkey thigh topped with flaky pastry dusted with pork crackling.

Alongside it were the Hot Maple Glazed Turkey Crown, Wagyu Dripping Roast Potatoes, the Best Ever Double Wrapped Pigs in Blankets (£14.50 or £16.50 depending on the Pork Garnish Selection), and Collection Brussels Sprout and Leek Gratin (£10), with a Turkey & Thyme Gravy, and Collection Cranberry & Port Sauce (£2.50). Try saying all of that five times over.

I wanted to hate it. I wanted to whine and say the Turkey Wellington just wasn't up to par. I wanted to stick it to M&S's pricing team and tell them it's wildly overrated. But I couldn't.

The Collection British Turkey & Stuffing Wellington by Tom is the star of the show this Christmas. Turkey can be a divisive bird, especially when it's not cooked properly, rendering it dry and bland.

Tom's innovative take on the Christmas centrepiece is a marvel to behold. The turkey was tender and melted in your mouth, while the pork crackling puff pastry flaked away beautifully.

However, for me, the hero of the dish was the pulled turkey thigh. Reminiscent of a hog roast, the shredded turkey brought a rich flavour to the bird I'd never tasted before.

The three words I used to describe this feast: worthy every penny.

I understand the price is a point of contention, especially in the current cost of living climate. If you have the money, I'd implore you to give this a try. However, if you're conscious of money, I think Tom should do a tutorial for home cooks to replicate the dish at home, so everyone can enjoy a slice.

For me, it far overshadowed the pigs in blankets, which were, in my opinion, too anemic for my taste. Give me them cremated or nada.

I felt the same underwhelm for the roast potatoes; lacking in a toastie crisp and fluffy potato on the inside. The Wagyu Beef Dripping (£4.50) didn't bring as much flavour as I'd hoped.

If Brussels sprouts are a divisive dish on your table, definitely opt for a gratin instead. The cheese flavour wasn't too pungent, and the breadcrumbs give the vegetables a toasty crunch.

Panettone has been everywhere this year, but M&S was the only supermarket who did something a little bit different. Now, I can take it or leave it, but if you want a slice of panettone that's not too heavy, consider the Collection Lemon & Mascarpone Panettone Gateau (£25). It looks more like a cake than a traditional panettone, and the lemon sharpness cuts through an otherwise thick dessert.

While Tom's Wellington undoubtedly stole the show, M&S' party food, on-the-go collection, and sweet treats are not to be missed. With hundreds of new and returning favourites hitting shelves over the next few months, these are my favourites - and the ones I'm waiting to try:

• Surf & Turf Brioche Rolls (£6) - soft and buttery brioche with fresh lobster and prawn cocktail filling. Retro food but make it modern.
• Gingerbread & White Chocolate Cookies (five for £3.25) - I missed these last year when they first went viral, but I finally understand what my teammate has been banging on about. A new iteration, the Peppermint Bark Cookies (five for £3.25) are perfect for chocolate lovers.
• Chicken Kyiv Hot Melting Dip (£4) - I'm a sucker for a dip and this one brings all the familiar flavours of the popular dish with a rich and indulgent finish. Perfect for dipping crusty bread, crackers, anything really.
• Fish & Chip Bites (£5.50) - great little snack for party food or a post-Christmas dinner picky tea.
• Collection 8 Mini Turkey Feast Toasties (£7.50) - I didn't get to try these on the night, but the gravy dipping sauce will be calling my name.

M&S has well and truly done it again. There's something about M&S that captures the magic of Christmas particularly well for adults like myself who've felt the sparkle dwindle over the years.

Every year I look forward to seeing what supermarkets release for Christmas; to see who's going to try and be different, who's got the most exciting and innovative food. Working with Tom Kerridge is a masterful plan, and while he did acknowledge the backlash to some of the products, I can understand his point of view.

Unsurprisingly, this isn't just Christmas, this is M&S' Christmas.

Various food lines and products will be launching over the next couple of months, with some already in stores now.